Everything you need is in the box. Vinyl ID listens to a copy of your turntable's signal, so nothing sits between your records and your speakers. Pick one of two hook-ups: the headphone jack, or the red & white plugs.
Your turntable, amp or powered speaker has a headphone or AUX socket. You use one splitter from the box: the 3.5 mm one.
The standard pair of plugs on the back of nearly every turntable and amp. You use both red & white Y-splitters from the box, one per plug.
The player arrives with its power cord and its audio capture cord already attached. The capture cord ends in two kinds of connector, a 3.5 mm (headphone) end and a red & white pair, and you use one or the other, never both. The splitters for either hook-up are in the box too.
Power cord and audio capture cord built in. The capture cord ends in a 3.5 mm connector and a red & white pair: plug in whichever matches your gear and leave the other alone.
For the headphone-jack hook-up. One 3.5 mm plug in, two sockets out. It is the only splitter you use on that path.
One red, one white. For the red & white hook-up you use both: one on the red plug, one on the white. Each takes a single plug in and gives you two out.
Use the single 3.5 mm Y-splitter from the box. One leg keeps feeding your speakers, the other feeds the 3.5 mm end of Vinyl ID's capture cord. Leave the red & white splitters in the box.
Look for a small round socket labelled headphones, AUX OUT or LINE OUT on your turntable, amp or powered speaker. Any of them will work.
Push the 3.5 mm Y-splitter from the box into that socket. You now have two identical outputs.
Run a 3.5 mm cable from one leg of the splitter to your speakers. If you're splitting a headphone jack on an amp that already drives your speakers, you can leave this leg empty.
Plug the 3.5 mm end of Vinyl ID's capture cord into the other leg. No extra cable needed. Plug in the power, play a record, and you're done.
Some amps and receivers mute the speakers the moment anything is plugged into the headphone jack. If your room goes quiet, that's why. Use the amp's REC OUT / TAPE OUT with the red & white hook-up instead.
Use both red & white Y-splitters from the box, one on each plug. Your turntable keeps feeding your amp exactly as it does today; the second pair of sockets takes the red & white ends of Vinyl ID's capture cord.
On the back of your turntable, look for the pair of RCA plugs labelled OUT or LINE OUT. If your turntable has a PHONO / LINE switch, set it to LINE. If it has no switch and plugs into a PHONO input on your amp, split at the amp's REC OUT or TAPE OUT instead (see the note below).
Unplug the existing cable from the turntable and push the two splitters from the box onto its outputs: the red one on the red plug, the white one on the white. Each splitter now gives you two identical sockets.
Plug the original cable that went to your amp into one socket on each splitter. Your listening setup is now back exactly as it was.
Plug the red & white ends of Vinyl ID's capture cord into the remaining socket on each splitter, red to red, white to white. Plug in the power, drop a needle, and the record appears on screen within a few seconds.
A turntable without a built-in preamp puts out a very quiet phono-level signal that Vinyl ID can't hear well. Line level is what you want. Three easy places to get it: a turntable with a built-in preamp set to LINE, the REC OUT / TAPE OUT jacks on your amp or receiver, or a small external phono preamp placed before the splitter.
You're almost certainly feeding it phono level. Move the split to a line-level output, or add a phono preamp before the splitter.
You split a headphone jack on an amp that mutes its speakers. Switch to the red & white hook-up and split at REC OUT / TAPE OUT.
A plug isn't fully seated, or red and white got swapped somewhere. Re-seat every plug and match the colours end to end.
No. Y-splitters are passive: no power, no processing. Your speakers receive the same signal they always did.
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